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During the Vietnam War, the Vietcong's unsporting habit of cutting the roads that connected Saigon with the countryside meant that only a pathetic trickle of first-class produce reached the capital, and that, in turn, meant that the sophisticated Vietnamese dishes that you eat today, there or elsewhere in the world, were out of reach Somehow, though, there was always plenty of pho, the restorative, anise-scented beef or chicken noodle soup, delivered to your door for breakfast by frail-looking vendors, and that was ample compensation.